This soil germination method is a low risk, easy method that that take up to 3-10 days. Read our guide to learn how to germinate seeds in soil. Did your cannabis plant just die for no apparent reason? Frustrating, isn’t it? There is a whole range of reasons why this might have happened and in I figure this is a common newb question and I am a newb to this so this is the place for me…. I pre-soaked 6 old ass bag seed in a mild pHed epsom +…
Soil Germination Method in 8 steps
Amongst the best ways to germinate cannabis seeds, this soil germination method is a low risk, easy method that explains how to germinate your seeds in soil. Germination can take 3-10 days, depending on environmental conditions and variety
Never use soil from your backyard! It can contain pests and moulds that will damage or destroy your seeds, seedlings or plants.
How to germinate seeds in soil
Read here which 8 steps you have to take for this soil germination method.
Step 1: Prepare your soil
Prepare your pots with clean fresh soil. It is often easy to use small pots for this, and transport them to a larger container later.
Step 2: Watering the soil
Make sure your soil is wet, but do not soak it. It needs to be damp but not soaked, otherwise you risk your seeds to rot. In most countries, normal tap water is clean enough to use. Do not add any additives to the water.
Step 3: Placing the seed inside the soil
Make a small dimple in the soil and place the seed 3-5mm deep inside the soil. Don’t bury your seed too deep! When you put your seed too deep inside the soil, it will struggle to reach the surface, and have a high risk of dying before it does.
Step 4: Cover the seed and press gently
Cover the seed with soil and press the soil gently.
Step 5: Cover the pots with kitchen foil
Cover your pot(s) with kitchen foil or microwave foil (with the small holes). The foil will act like a small greenhouse, keeping the inside of your pot warm and moist. Perfect for germination.
Step 6: Poke some holes
When you use normal kitchen foil, poke some holes through the foil. This will avoid the risk of overheating and let air flow true.
Place your setup in a room with stable temperature. 20-25 degrees is ideal. We often advice your living room
Step 7: Wait for germination
All you have to do now is wait. In our experience it often takes about 4-5 days for your seedlings to show. But to calculate for differences in conditions and seeds, we say 3-10 days is a safe estimate. As soon as your seedling has sprouted (first leaves reach the surface) you can remove the foil.
Step 8: Take care of your seedlings
All 5 seeds germinated in 4 days within 24 hours of each other. You can now place them under a grow light, behind your window or outside (during spring / summer of course).
WARNING! Do not place this germination setup outside in direct sunlight, especially during summer. Day and night temperatures vary too much and sunlight will cause the temperature inside your soil to rise to a point where your seed will be damaged or killed by the heat.
17 Comments . Leave new
buongiorno dutch passion ho seguito il vostro tutorial e dopo 4 giorni la germinazione è avvenuta.una domanda vorrei fare,devo aspettare che si aprono i cotiledoni prima di rimuovere la pellicola o posso mettere il vas gia al sole anche se non sono aperti i cotiledoni. grazie e buona domenica
tutto ok germinazione perfeta.
When a seedling is in its first days its best to not place it in direct sunlight. This can be too much for a little seedling. When the seedling starts growing a little bit you can place it in direct sunlight
ok perfect I do this because I saw that it is the best method.I had put it in direct sunlight and it was dying, I managed to save it in time.I have one in germination and I will apply your advice.thank you very much Joe
Once the stem has come through the soil how long till you put it on a larger pot and up the tempreture
It depends a little bit on the pot size you started with.
Additionally, if you grow an autoflower its best to germinate them in the pot they will also flower in. They don’t like to be transplanted a lot.
If you grow feminised seeds than you can put them in a larger pot after 3/4 weeks.
Sweet thank you ,
Hi, Joe answering?? I did an error putting seeds in soil not enough wet and under lamp … I choose Orange punch feminized and autoflowering…Is a good choice for me ad a beginner or could you give me best options? (Medium-high THC and quantity of final result) I also need some good ideas about the soil to use and the power of led lamps (I’ve buyed 2x100watt multiple ranges led lamp for plant grown for about 60cm x 40cm for 4/6 seeds). I have to do another order and I’m trying to do all well. Waiting hopefully for your answer, my best regards, thanks. Heathcliff
Critical Orange Punch is a good strain to start your growing career. Please try to follow the germination steps from this blog and you should be fine Don’t start your light if the seeds have not germinated yet. For your soil I advice you to have a type of soil that has minimum nutrients because seedlings cannot handle too much nutrients, these should be added later :).
How to prevent the death of cannabis seeds and seedlings
Every grower, almost without exception, will have occasionally suffered the death of a plant during cultivation, just when it seemed that everything was going along nicely. In this article, we’ll focus on the main reasons why seeds may not germinate properly, or why seedlings may end up dead in the first weeks of life.
Seeds dying before germination
Cannabis seeds can die even before we start to grow them, in which case, when the grower comes to germinate them, they won’t open up and sprout at all.
The seeds of the cannabis plant, like many other types of seeds, must always be kept in the correct conditions, especially if you want to save the leftover seeds for later use and ensure that they germinate well in the future.
The same goes for unopened whole packs of seeds that have been purchased to store for later use. Sometimes, certain varieties are in high demand and there is limited stock, so the more astute growers will make sure they grab a few packs to keep in the vault until they find the time to germinate the cannabis seeds.
Cannabis seeds must be stored in the correct conditions
What to do with leftover seeds or unopened seed packs
Cannabis seeds need very low relative humidity and relatively low temperature for their proper storage, so the best plan is to keep them in a “no frost” refrigerator, in which both the humidity and temperature are maintained at very low levels for better conservation of food.
If we want to keep a seed package that’s still sealed, simply put the whole unopened pack into the fridge. The best place for its conservation is usually the small shelf where the eggs or butter are kept, although really any part of the fridge is ideal for storage.
If we want to save the leftover seeds from a pack for later use, we recommend storing them in the original Eppendorf tube or container used by the bank. In the original packaging, these Eppendorf tubes hold the seeds and usually also contain a few small silica gel balls, included to maintain very low humidity (10 to 20%) and help to ensure that the seed does not lose any germination viability.
If, however, we leave the seeds for a long period of time in any corner of the house it is possible that over time their viability to germinate will decrease, and when we plant them they may take a long time to germinate or indeed not germinate at all. it is also important to protect them from sunlight.
So if you wish to save the seeds in the best conditions, always keep them in the refrigerator, well protected from air, light and moisture.
How do we store leftover seeds to grow at a later date?
Death during the germination of cannabis seeds
Death during the germination of cannabis seeds is one of the most frequent failures suffered by every grower over the course of his or her cultivation career. There are several possible reasons that can lead to the seeds dying before they even open and begin to grow, which we’ll examine here.
Not all seeds have the same resistance to the errors that may occur during the germination process. Just as not all siblings are not all equal, neither are all seeds. By this, we mean that in the case of one seed germinating and the rest of them not doing so, it doesn’t necessarily mean that those that didn’t germinate were not strong or resistant, but simply that they were less so than the one that did germinate. If this occurs, we must ask ourselves why they did not germinate and look for any possible failings in the process.
Death by drowning the seed during germination
We start from the basic premise that the seeds require moisture, oxygen and a suitable temperature for germination; If one of the three aspects is not taken into account, it is quite likely that the seeds won’t end up germinating.
Putting the cannabis seeds in a glass of water and waiting 24 to 48 hours for their germination can be a fatal error for them. Re-hydrating the seeds in water is a good idea as long as they are not out of contact with the air for long, as they will be deprived of oxygen and most of the time they will end up dying; so if we use this method, we only leave them to re-to hydrate in water for a few minutes, although, preferably we will avoid any previous soaking or re-hydration (which in any case is not necessary).
We must maintain suitable levels of humidity for germination
The reason for this is that tap water contains chlorine, which sterilises the water to make it suitable for domestic use. However, this chlorine disappears by evaporation after a few hours, so if the water then gets contaminated, the seed can be attacked by any number of pathogens and eventually die. This example also illustrates why we must always touch the seeds with clean hands; If the seeds are handled with dirty fingers, it can lead a fungal or bacterial infection to contaminate them and severely compromise their development.
The same can happen in other germination media such as jiffy plugs, where the most common mistake is usually not draining away the excess water after re-hydrating the compressed peat. To this error, we can add that of burying the seed at more than twice its own depth, in which case it may not emerge despite having germinated perfectly well, but instead, simply end up rotting due to excess water and lack of oxygen. This error is also frequent in growers who germinate directly in the soil because when they first irrigate, the seed can be washed down into the soil resulting in them being buried too deeply, which makes it difficult for the seedling to reach the surface. It is always better to wet the substrate first, before sowing any seeds.
If you want to sow the seed directly into the soil and do it properly, when growing outdoors you must also act to prevent seed predators. Ants, birds, and many other animals or insects are another common cause of seed failure during germination. In the case of ants, they eat the small, delicate root, leaving the plant unable to develop and condemning it to imminent death.
Placing the seeds between moist serviettes/paper towels is one of the best germination methods for beginner growers. Since you can easily see if the seed has taken root or not. But we must also bear in mind that the germination medium, the kitchen paper, is made of cellulose, meaning it is an organic material that will decompose and rot, just like any product of this type.
Planting the germinated seed is also a crucial moment
It is, therefore, obligatory to change the napkins every day and a half, more or less, to avoid the seeds being contaminated by the pathogens that can appear as the napkins begin to rot. For this reason, we recommend placing the napkins in a deep plate and covering it with another one, leaving a small gap between the two so that air can enter, oxygenate the microclimate that is created during the germination of the seeds and avoiding them rotting.
Seeds dying due to lack of moisture
Just as excess water is one of the most common causes of germination problems, the lack of moisture is equally detrimental to the process.
If outdoor temperatures are around 20 to 24ºC, then we shouldn’t need do much more than start the seeds to germinate and wait for them to open, following the precautions already discussed. But in case of having warmer or cooler temperatures, we must act to raise or lower the environmental temperature for optimal germination, and find the best location for germination to be successful.
If it is winter, the plates holding the seeds are often placed on top of a low heat source to raise the temperature. We must, however, be careful: if this heat source emits hot air, the paper towels will dry out and the seeds will run out of moisture, affecting germination. If you realise this in time, you can re-hydrate the seeds and they will usually recover from and continue to germinate, although it is also possible that there will be consequences that may affect the subsequent development of the plant during its cultivation.
Not long after sowing the seed, we will see our little plant emerge from the soil
If we haven’t noticed soon enough that the seeds have been left without moisture, we can assume that they will have dried up completely, with their consequent death, and this is even more likely if the seeds had already opened up to show the root. This can also happen very easily if we germinate during summer when temperatures are high and humidity is usually very low compared to other times of the year.
Death of the plants during the growth period
The start of the growth period is a very important stage in a plant’s life, so several aspects must be taken into account so that it does not die of any of a number of causes.
One of the most frequent problems is root rot due to excess irrigation and lack of oxygen in the substrate. Up till now, this has been one of the most common causes of plant death during the growth period, especially with beginner gardeners who lack previous cultivation experience. In addition, the likelihood of this happening increases considerably in crops with auto-flowering varieties; we’ll explain what to do here.
When the plant emerges from the substrate, leaving behind its germination stage, it is crucial to take care with any excess water and the lack of humidity in its aerial parts such as leaves, stems and branches.
The proper conditions guarantee good germinación
When the plant is young and only has a very small root, its needs are few, it feeds and drinks very little. If we saturate the substrate with too much water, apart from halting the growth of the root (leading to little or no growth in the aerial parts), it creates the ideal conditions for the small roots to slowly rot. If the plant loses a part or all of its tiny root system in its first stage of life, it is almost guaranteed that it will die within a few days.
If we use a small 0.5L to 1L plant pot for the first part of vegetative growth, before transplanting them to a bigger pot, we will be covering our backs in case of any excess of irrigation, since the substrate will dry out again much faster than in larger pots. For this reason, this issue is very common for novice growers who are cultivating auto-flowering cannabis plants, where the use of 20L pots is recommended from the start.
It is often said that you must irrigate with an appropriate amount of water and nutrients for the size of the plant. As this is often complicated to carry out, as a rough guide we can irrigate the plants with an amount not more than 10 or 20% of the plant pot’s capacity. So, if they are 1L pots we will water from 100 to 200ml as long as it is not an auto-flowering plant.
If the plan is to grow automatic varieties, then during the first two weeks we water with 100 to 350ml per irrigation, every 1 or 2 days. Remember that the substrate must maintain a minimum of humidity to allow the plant to feed and continue to develop normally. If it is raining and the plants are outdoors, it’s a good idea to move or cover them, to prevent the substrate from getting soaked, which could easily lead to root zone problems.
The first stages of growth survived with success!
We hope that this information will be useful and help to stop your seeds and seedlings dying. Don’t hesitate to leave any comments or questions, we’ll be pleased to help.
The articles published by Alchimiaweb, S.L. are reserved for adult clients only. We would like to remind our customers that cannabis seeds are not listed in the European Community catalogue. They are products intended for genetic conservation and collecting, in no case for cultivation. In some countries it is strictly forbidden to germinate cannabis seeds, other than those authorised by the European Union. We recommend our customers not to infringe the law in any way, we are not responsible for their use.
How long for pre-germed seeds to break soil.
I figure this is a common newb question and I am a newb to this so this is the place for me.
I pre-soaked 6 old ass bag seed in a mild pHed epsom + superthrive 000ppm RO/DI solution last Wednesday at a constant temp of 85deg F for 24 hours. Then placed them in paper towel damped with the same solution and kept them at the same 85deg. 4 of the 6 cracked, which surprised the shit out of me considering I have not the foggiest how old the seeds are other than they are at least 2 years old and were not kept in the best conditions. This last Sunday I planted the popped beans in a screened 50/50 peat & composted steer manure mix which I then cut 50/50 with perlite. I mix my soil in 15 gallon batches and to that I add 1/4 cup agricultural gypsum,1/4 cup epsom salt, 1 cup blood meal, 1 cup cotton seed meal, 1 cup kelp meal, 2 cups fish bone meal and 2 cups rock dust. This is my standard tomato and pepper mix and it’s never failed me before. I set the seeds in a < 1/4" depression misted until damp with pHed RO/DI, covered with the soil mix and then misted heavily, but not soaked. The 4 starter pots were then place in a humidity dome and have been kept in the dark at a constant temp of 82deg F since. I've misted the soil once a day since. This is also my standard procedure starting my peppers and maters and it is highly successful for them. Not one seed has broken the soil yet. I figure with each bean cracking and showing from 1/8" to 1/4" of tap root that they are viable seeds. Am I being an impatient cook watching his water waiting for it to boil so to speak and need to just be patient?? Or have I screwed up somehow from the get go??
This is my first go at growing the sweet sweet herb. But I’ve been organic gardening fruits and veggies from seed for over a decade. I’m psyched to get these babies in my cabinet. Just posting here for input and to maybe put my mind at ease a little while I wait. I haven’t had this kind of anxiety since waiting in the doc’s office for my vasectomy. odd how a growing a simple plant can wind me up so much. In the end if I dicked the bag seed up. no big loss. I am going to do a few grows with the old seed I have left to get a couple grows under my belt before I pop the seed I paid for.